About then, a sudden, strong wind gust came up and slams the passenger door shut really hard and I get distorted, buzzy music from the front passenger door! AHA! Now I'm figuring there must be a serious wiring harness issue somewhere between the head unit and the speakers. Hooked everything up, head unit powers up - nothing out of any of the six speakers. So, I installed the head unit and that day for some reason had the passenger front door open while doing it. Now, I have to say, that I'd opened and closed all the doors and the back barn doors several times on the drive back from NC and in the days up until the new head unit arrived and nothing. So, of course I just "knew" it had to be a bad head unit, so I ordered that reconditioned and jazzed up one off of eBay. Had no sound when I bought the Burb in North Carolina and I damn well wasn't going to drive it half way across the country back home to Nebraska with no tunes, so I bought a cheap AM/FM/CD boom box at Walmart and a couple of packages of batteries and set it on the console for the drive back. That's how I wound up with the new reman AM/FM/CD/Cassette head unit for my 98 Burb with the mini phone jack Aux Input and the dual pair of RCA pre-amp outputs and the original one, too! the 1995 radio location.Ĭlick to expand.Ditto on checking to make sure your cheap OEM speakers haven't crapped out, 1st or 2nd gen dash. I like the "clock "in the 1994 location vs. I used a XM radio via FM modulation with the external antenna unplugged. The dash lamps burning out in the head units were my main problem. You will need the wireing for the EQ if you find one. A lesser known 3rd option is a casette deck or full equilizer in the location where most slam the 1 DIN aftermarket radio. Some have equalizer buttons and some don't. Pay attention to the controls on the head unit and keep them matched up with the amps. Put a storage area in for the OEM head unit and 1 din aftermarket radio in like everyone else does.Ī trip to the junkyard and pull some head units and amps out of gas rigs. The 1995+ dashes like to break out around the bolt holes esp. The 1995+ controls are pure Krap IMO for reliability. I only killed one HVAC for 1992 when the batteries failed. Please share! I’d love to have first-hand experiences on both styles of truck and even people that have done the conversion. But is it worth it? Those of you that have owned both generations of GMT400 trucks, are there problems with the older stuff that makes a dash swap more worth it? Or are there actually preferences for the old dash layout that I don’t know about? I won’t be doing the swap for a few months so there’s time for people to share opinions. And I would do the dash swap while I do the mechanical DB2 conversion so redoing the wiring will actually be a nice opportunity for simplifying the truck. Is the dash swap worth it? I know it’s wiring and all that, but that doesn’t scare me - this is a truck I hope to have the rest of my life so I want to do it right. They look like they could go bad just from the design. The factory radio isn’t working so I already will have to address that and I just don’t know what to think about the heater controls. The HVAC controls and radio are the main things I don’t like. I’m seriously considering an interior swap to the newer style. I’ve never owned or even driven an 88-94 and so far I’ve only driven this truck less than a mile, but already I’m not in love with the older dash. It’s a solid truck that is a good foundation for a build.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |